Reality is a concept firmly rooted in the imagination. This blog is a pretty much imaginary place for me to showcase my attempts to represent in reality some of the things that have come to live in my imagination.
Here are some progress pics of the Klingon Bird of Prey. I did take a bit of a break from it--I never completely stopped but the work slowed down for a while. I'm nearly ready to close up the hull, stick on the wings, and do the finish work on it that you do after you already see the light at the end of the tunnel. Speaking of light, here's the red and amber lighting for the torpedo emitter (and navigational deflector?). Paint needs some touch-up.
Here's the wiring for that lighting. I was originally going to add nine small red LEDs to light up the ring around the torpedo emitter, and had them all soldered up, but try as I might could not fit them in. So there are three ultra-bright red LEDs, plus the amber one in the middle. Plus limiting resistors so it can run on 9VDC. All packed in epoxy.
I used the technique promoted most famously by Don Matthys of Don's Light and Magic to glaze the windows in the lower front command hull, but used 5 minute epoxy, which is pretty viscous, so it didn't fill the windows completely. His method is to tape over the outside of the opening and pour in clear resin. Here I tried a variation on the technique: I cut out holes in the tape, painted in there (to repair damage to the paint job and to seal the tape better). Then I smeared in clear epoxy from the outside. It worked better but the result wasn't perfect.
I couldn't resist: The detail along the trailing edge of the wing sticks out on the kit, but on the filming model it's recessed. So I hogged out the detail and replaced it with strips of Evergreen corrugated siding. You can see the LEDs and fiber optic in there, too. The LEDs are those Christmas lights I mentioned before that consist of warm white SMTs on lacquered wire with a blob of clear resin on each one. I drilled out a hole in the resin for the 1mm fiber optic and inserted it with epoxy. Then sealed the light in for better transmission with repeated coats of Metallizer alumiinum plate and Future.
Here's the new trailing edge. Sorry about the focus. You get the idea.
Lastly, here's a lighting test. What are those things, headlights? Navigational deflectors? I don't know; maybe I'll have to get the owner's manual now that it's out.
Scott Spicer of SRS Prototyping has his Mirror Universe Col. Green figure out now. You may remember the character from the TOS episode "The Savage Curtain" (and the Star Trek: Enterprise episode "Demons"). The story is he's the emperor of Earth around the mid 21st century, but in the Mirror Universe. He's a genius--he invented the shield generator he's wearing on his back--and he's still evil. I'd expect his alternative actions gave rise to the mirror universe.
The figure stands 4.25" tall, which is about 1/18 scale if we allow Col. Green is over six feet tall, which seems probable since he's genetically superior. (I'm over six feet tall myself, so I should know!) He's molded with a separate head, which can be posed, and right arm holding a space helmet, which cannot. His Imperial dagger and officer's sword are also molded separately, and a base is provided with the Imperial logo laser etched by Laserfire Creations. The whole thing is $16 plus shipping.
Maybe there is someone out there who built this model and puttied and sanded it and gave it a slick glossy paint job. Maybe he even used aftermarket parts. If so, I think he missed the point.
This is the Polar Lights model of "The Homer," a snap-together kit from 2003 of the car designed by Homer in the episode "Oh Brother, Where Art Thou?"
This is the last kit I slapped together as soon as I got it home. Instead of decals, it's got stickers. The fit isn't too good, so I was forced to use glue in spots to get it to stay together somewhat, but no sanding or painting or anything. In short, I used all the modeling skills I had as a six-year-old. Well, not quite all.
OK, here's the track assembly fixture. It's just a piece of scrapwood with popsicle sticks glued to it. It might be better to show it in action, but here's how it works. The space between the popsicle sticks is wide enough for the guide horns on 1/35 PzKfw III/IV track links. You cut two strips of tape (I used blue painters' tape) and lay them sticky side up on top of the popsicle sticks, fastened with thumb tacks at the ends. Then you put the track links in one at a time with the guide horns between the popsicle sticks. The tape holds them all together on the inner face. Now you can wrap the length of track around the wheels of your AFV and apply liquid cement.
These are some shots of my recently completed DML 1:35 Sturmgeschütz III F/8. I hadn't done an armor kit since 2006, and did it to participate in a group build called The Sturmgeschütz Brigade Build on Armorama. This is the Imperial Series kit, not the later Smart Kit, and has been sitting in my stash since the mid '90s. The Imperial Series were originally Gunze kits, I am informed. Never had a Gunze kit, so I can't confirm that. It's a better quality kit than 1970s Tamiya armor, but not up to today's standards. It does have individual link tracks, as opposed to those vinyl "rubber bands" or the intermediate option, which I really hate, "link-and-length." It also has some really nicely detailed parts (the roadwheels are especially fine), but there's a downside, too. Fortunately, most of the downside is easy to fix or hard to see.
The intake covers are molded solid. They couldn't take in much air that way! These were easy to replace with parts I made from scratch. Newer kits include photoetch replacements for these. The trailing arms for the roadwheels are molded onto the lower hull in a funky way: they extend under the hull. Solution: don't let anyone look underneath!
This was also my first use of the hairspray technique. (Short description: over the base coat, apply hairspray, which is water-soluble. When it's dry, paint over that with acrylic. Let this dry--not too long--then wet it and rub off loose paint.) It's a pretty handy way to show chipped paint, but it's easy to overdo it. It's also an easy way to knock off delicate parts! The whitewash is applied even to the rubber parts--I figure no crew cared to mask off the tires--but as rubber doesn't hold paint well, most of it has come off, except for the spare roadwheels on the back of the engine deck..
The individual link tracks were kind of a pain. I did the right-side run by hand, and it only took 91 links as opposed to the 93 of the real thing. It seemed track assembly would go easier with a mechanical aid, so I built a fixture and assembled the left-hand run on it. It only took 90 links, and sags even more. Why? Damfino!
The whitewash is Pollyscale flat white, applied both with brush and airbrush, and generally rubbed off with a toothbrush. In photographs, one often sees Winterketten (the extra-wide tracks) are often supplemented with some regular links. On my model, one of the winterketten links on each track has been modified to be a regular track link, as has the length of extra track mounted on the rear. I thought this would serve to explain the tracks. The painting of the tracks is pretty simple: I spray painted them Krylon camo brown, then misted with Krylon red primer. The tracks on the suspension then got drybrushed with acrylic gunmetal and washed with cheapo craft-store acrylic brown to muddy them up.
Here's a demonstration of the lighting effects I've installed so far in the Klingon Bird of Prey. It's engine and warp core lighting, and lighting to a panel next to the door at the top of the entry ramp.
The first part I did was the the LED and fiber optic lighting for the panel next to the door at the top of the entry ramp. (Actually, it required rework recently. My soldering is just awful, and it was working intermittently. Now it's fixed.) The green and yellow ones are flashing LEDs and they're in parallel. The red one is in series with them, so if either of them lights, it should light too. Problem right now is that the 9V battery powering so much lighting it can't quite keep up with the load, so there's only enough current to light the red LED when both the green and yellow LEDs are lit. There's a single strand of 0.25mm fiber optic coming out of the top of each LED to illuminate the panel next to the door at the top of the boarding ramp. Neither you nor I understand the significance of these flashing lights, but I assure you they are perfectly intelligible to Klingons.
Also lit in part with fiber optic is the warp core. I say "in part" because the hole the fiber optics pass through is a bit oversized and the red and blue LEDs are right above it. As with the other LEDs, I drilled holes into them and stuck fiber optic in with one-minute epoxy. I am given to understand that cyanoacrylate glue is destructive to fiber optic. Because my supply of fiber optic is low, I have not yet verified this, even though I love destructive testing. By the way, you can safely drill holes pretty deeply into LEDs since they are mostly clear acrylic lens. The actual diode that lights up is tiny and you can see from looking at the side that it's near the bottom.
You can see the blue and red illumination of the warp core is flickering. This is because the two blue LEDs and one red LED are in series, respectively, with two flickering yellow LEDs that I scavenged from LED candles I bought at the dollar store, three for a dollar. The yellow LEDs provide part of the glow for the upper and lower sections of the engine. I think the flickering is a cool effect and is prominent in onscreen appearances of the Klingon Bird of Prey.
Another reason for the flickering yellow LEDs is to supplement the main illumination for the engine provided by 12 warm white LEDs. My initial impression of the engine lighting effect watching Star Trek III was that it was a pulsing effect. I happened to find a pretty cool string of mini Christmas lights at Walmart, which has 36 surface mount warm white LEDs on lacquered wire, with a battery power supply that has three settings: steady on, blink, and phase. The phase setting slowly ramps up, then back down again, which is pretty much the effect I wanted, except that it goes all the way off, which I didn't want it to do. That's one reason I supplement it with the flickering yellow LEDs.
The string of warm white LEDs is wrapped around a couple pieces of popsicle stick. I understand they're called iced lollies elsewhere in the English-speaking world. The warm white LEDs and their effects board are supposed to be powered by three AA batteries. Instead the effects board will get 5V from a 78L05 voltage regulator, which is how it's breadboarded right now. I figured the LEDs and the effects board were probably engineered with at least enough factor of safety that they could handle 5V, and indeed they can, so a 78L05 voltage regulator is dropping the 9V down to 5V. This way, the lighting can all run from a single 9VDC power supply, which makes it simpler and prevents circuits from getting the wrong voltage. The 78L05 is big enough for the job since the effects module is only drawing about 60mA.
I've stripped the lacquer off the ends of the wires of the remaining warm white LEDs and stuck them into the breadboard in series with a resistor to test out the planned interior lighting and navigation lights. Actually, it won't require all the remaining LEDs, just about a dozen of them. These LEDs are all in parallel sharing one limiting resistor--I guess in violation of conventional wisdom, but I won't get into the issues here. I already installed 1.0mm fiber optic in the wings for the headlights--the KBoP Owners' Manual calls them something else, but they sure look like headlights to me.
There are a few bits of lighting to add to this. A red LED will light up the two vents under the front of the main hull, and the navigational deflector/torpedo launcher needs lighting, but all that will be constant lighting. So it's not too much more work, and I'll be able to close up the hull.
Look at that happy face! This is my nephew Charles Yeager (no relation to the pilot who first broke the sound barrier). Charlie is proudly showing off a model he built: a Naboo fighter from Star Wars Episode I. It comes pre-decorated, but he points out that he also colored some details with a Sharpie marker. He's also got some other models, including a pair of B-25 Mitchell bombers.
Here are some progress pics of the Klingon Bird of Prey. I did take a bit of a break from it--I never completely stopped but the work slowed down for a while. I'm nearly ready to close up the hull, stick on the wings, and do the finish work on it that you do after you already see the light at the end of the tunnel. Speaking of light, here's the red and amber lighting for the torpedo emitter (and navigational deflector?). Paint needs some touch-up.
I used the technique promoted most famously by Don Matthys of Don's Light and Magic to glaze the windows in the lower front command hull, but used 5 minute epoxy, which is pretty viscous, so it didn't fill the windows completely. His method is to tape over the outside of the opening and pour in clear resin. Here I tried a variation on the technique: I cut out holes in the tape, painted in there (to repair damage to the paint job and to seal the tape better). Then I smeared in clear epoxy from the outside. It worked better but the result wasn't perfect.
I couldn't resist: The detail along the trailing edge of the wing sticks out on the kit, but on the filming model it's recessed. So I hogged out the detail and replaced it with strips of Evergreen corrugated siding. You can see the LEDs and fiber optic in there, too. The LEDs are those Christmas lights I mentioned before that consist of warm white SMTs on lacquered wire with a blob of clear resin on each one. I drilled out a hole in the resin for the 1mm fiber optic and inserted it with epoxy. Then sealed the light in for better transmission with repeated coats of Metallizer alumiinum plate and Future.
Here's the new trailing edge. Sorry about the focus. You get the idea.
